American Totality

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Four friends chase the 2019 solar eclipse from Southern California to Eastern Oregon

by Ryan Cline with Eric Rubens and Rob Strok

The call came on August 15th: that afternoon four friends would rally in Southern California and we would charge north towards the path of the incoming Total Solar Eclipse.

We picked up a new Ford Raptor, loaded our gear, and raced for the Eastern Sierra, Owens Valley, “The 395” and its towering mountains (the tallest in the lower 48) and hot springs and solitude. 

Our goal was sunset, colors and stars.

“We’re on a volcano,” Eric said, “It’s called the Long Lake Caldera”.

“Let’s go see Lassen,” I said. “I’ve heard the waterfalls are from another continent.”

Days roll into nights as we press north towards Oregon. On our maps we see a dry lakebed surrounded by mountains, The Alvord Desert, a “playa”, a remnant of a vast waterway from the last ice age when glaciers covered much of North America.

It is a playground.

We eschew the crowds of Bend and State Parks, and make for an ancient volcanic ridge in the path of the totality, accessible only by high-clearance vehicles with 4WD. High up we find a small lake with only two other people present.

We gather as the Totality arrives, overlooking the valley spread out below as we are gifted a mid-day sunset and sunrise.

We begin our journey towards home. We take mountain roads through the Cascades, pausing at Crater Lake National Park, thinking on the 1,000 miles between there and home.