El Salvador on 35mm
Defying convention and expectation in Central America.
by Sierra Rempel
The plane begins its descent and I slide the plastic window covering open. The first thing I see is the morning light hitting the water. I can’t see the land, but I can see perfect sets rolling in from the rising sun.
Then — shore. A long sandy beach is sprinkled with homes as far as the eye can see. After that, farms and fields dotted with lights from early morning workers. I come to find out many are gathered around campfires drinking their morning coffee.
We land. It is time to explore.
For a first visit to El Salvador I eschewed (this trip) the typical Mayan ruins, plantations or fancy resorts. The trip itself was against convention: “It’s still dangerous” or “There is nothing to see”. Defying both I found the opposite: friendly people, endless beach and point breaks, and quite mountain towns that felt like stepping back in time.
As the maxim goes: first the surfers find it, then the backpackers, then the tourists.
Saying hi to the few backpackers on arrival, we went to the coast where I spent most of my time. Utter paradise. Class 5+ waves, bustling with zinc-faced and bleached haired locals and travellers.
El Tunco’s three streets boast a beautiful blend of authentic and new — you can fill up on pupusas, or treat yourself to a gourmet pizza or burger from one of the many expat run eateries. There are plenty of surf shops and even more hostels, the local guides are friendly and helpful. After a late afternoon siesta and/or skate sesh, be sure to grab a bottle of locally made beer and watch the sunset with the rest of the village.
Further up and down the coast you’ll find El Sunzal, El Zonte, La Libertad, Mizata, and so on. Perfect surf town after perfect surf town.
Back inland El Salvador hosts amazing hot springs, waterfalls, and volcanoes. Art and music abound, as well as locally owned yoga retreats and nightlife.
The average cliche tour book is just that, cliche. Defy rumour and expectation. Make friends with locals. Experience the old made new.
The feeling of timeless immediacy.
